Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Meanwhile, put the greens into a large bowl. After the water boils, pour it over the greens to cover. Let sit for a minute, or until softened and wilted. Drain immediately, flush with cold water, and drain well. Put in a non-terry dishtowel or piece of muslin, and squeeze to remove excess moisture. You should have 1/2 cup firmly packed. Wipe the bowl dry. Finely chop the greens and replace in the bowl. Add the green onion and ginger.

Break up the tofu into 4 or 5 chunks. Put them in the same dishtowel or muslin you just used, then gather it up. Standing over a sink, firmly squeeze and massage; leave some moisture in the tofu but it shouldn’t be wet. Add the tofu to a bowl of chopped greens, then sprinkle on the salt, white pepper, sugar, 2 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce, rice wine, and sesame oil. Use a fork to combine well and mash the tofu so the mixture sticks together a bit. Set aside for 30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate overnight, returning it to room temperature before continuing. Makes about 1 packed cup.

On a serving plate or in a shallow serving bowl, combine the 1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon chile oil, 3 tablespoons canola oil, and garlic. Taste and tweak with more chile oil for heat and canola oil for richness. Add a drizzle of sesame oil for nutty goodness, if you like. Set near the stove.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, then lower the heat and cover to keep hot.

Before making wontons, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Lower the heat and cover to keep hot.

Fill each wonton wrapper with about 1 teaspoon of filling. Remember to brush water on the wrapper edge. Use your favorite shape or take cues from my wonton noodle soup recipe post. Put your finished wontons on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet that’s been lightly dusted with cornstarch. Loosely cover with plastic wrap or a dry dishtowel to prevent drying.

Return the pot to a boil, add half of the wontons, gently dropping each in. Use a wooden spoon to nudge them to prevent sticking. Return the water to a gentle boil and then lower the heat to medium to maintain it. After the wontons have floated to the top, let them cook for another 3 minutes, until they are translucent. Use a slotted spoon or skimmer to scoop out the wontons from the pot, pausing above the pot to allow excess water to drip back down. If you like, briefly set the skimmer on a dishtowel to absorb any lingering moisture. Deposit the wontons in the dish with the sauce and use a serving spoon to gently to coat. Repeat to cook the remaining wontons. Sprinkle with chopped cilantro and serve immediately.